If you consume any media at all, I’m sure you heard Michael Pollan discussing his new book In Defense of Food last month. His catchy “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” mantra was picked up not only by the New York Times, where he originally published the article that spawned the book, but also Slate, NPR (more than once) and pretty much everyone else.
I was excited to get my hands on the book, and read it in less than 24 hours. First in line for a library copy, four weeks later it’s overdue (bad librarian!) and I’m still trying to figure out what it was about the book that left me flat. I can’t imagine arguing with his “eat food…” premise, but I’m not so sure about the way Pollan gets there.
Pollan spends much of In Defense of Food decrying “nutritionism,” a term he found in the 2002 article “Sorry Marge (.pdf)” that criticizes of the “use of and reliance on nutritional categories, and this whole framework of analysis, to guide us in our everyday quest to eat well.” Instead of science, Pollan writes, he relies “mainly on the authority of tradition and common sense” to tell us “how to eat.” This philosophy he contrasts to “letting scientists decide the menu,” “a mistake,” he tells us, because “they simply do not know enough.” It seems that here he either misunderstands or misrepresents scientific research. Science is in the business of describing our best understanding of the world up to this point. It changes, and rightly so. Each individual study adds a tiny building block of knowledge to all the others that came before it, and no single finding alone means as much as the synthesis of the findings together. The food industry, on the other hand, and is more than willing to cherry-pick the science that will help it sell food, and government agencies seem happy to turn a blind eye to the behavior. This is a relationship Pollan does not fail to discuss, yet he seems to ultimately hold science to blame. The distortion of science is not a good reason to reject science itself.
An assignment I always like to see coming through the library is one where students are asked to find an article in a popular source like Time or Newsweek that reports on a recent scientific study. Then, they have to find a copy of the actual scholarly article, the primary source, and compare the conclusions drawn in the two articles. Typically they find that the scientists are fairly circumspect, qualifying their conclusions and noting the limitations of their studies, while the reporting on the studies tends to simplify (and therefore distort, in many cases) the findings. These students are learning to read critically, and they’re learning how we synthesize data into knowledge, skills that are in short supply. The trouble with nutritionism is not bad science, it’s an inappropriate use of science, egged on by marketing, supported by government agencies like the USDA, and made possible by low scientific literacy.
The end of In Defense of Food covers Pollan’s recommendations for how to eat. These are suggestions like “don’t get your fuel from the same place your car does” or “cook, and if you can, plant a garden.” These are the kinds of suggestions that can’t possibly hurt anyone who chooses to follow them, whether they do it because they don’t trust science or because they make sense given what we know about diet and the human body up to this point. Trouble is, the food industry is just as happy to use Pollan’s advice to promote their products as they are to use science. The Salt Institute picked right up on the “don’t trust all that science-y stuff, just eat what you like” message when “Unhappy Meals” was published last January. Caveat lector.